Day 9

Did I miss Rabbit, Rabbit? Sorry if so - Rabbit, Rabbit! We awake early again and are on the road by 7:00. it will be a long haul made longer by my failing to recognize a planned gas stop until we are passed it by 47 miles. We have just enough gas to return and fill up, much relieved. Little did we know, again because I forgot my mental map, that only 30 miles ahead was a general store, at “The Junction” of The Dempster and Route 2 that sells gas. They used to rent gas cans, too, since the first stop on The Dempster is just out of our comfort range. They don't now but we have salvaged anti-freeze jugs from our missed gas stop and will take an extra gallon just in case. With the debacle we cover about 710 miles today. We can now begin the adventure we set out to experience.

Note: During the ride in the snow, two truckers, apparently unaware that we have CBs and that we were on their channel, said, “ Did you just see those two bikers? What ta hell are they doing out here? Crazy kids.” They were half right so we didn't say a thing.

Note: The Mountain Goats we saw are really Big Horn Sheep called Stone Goats here. We also saw prong horned goats called goats here. There are grizzlies but we haven't seen one or, if we did, it was a small one. It was sitting down eating grass, ants or whatever. I'd seen so many bears by then, I didn't stop. Should have.

Note: It didn't get dark last night. Just that colorless dusk. We are further north today and it won't get dark tonight, either. It is 11:00 Pm and I am typing by the light from the window. There is the beginnings of a beautiful pink sunset. It might get a little darker but not much.

Today, we spent half the day in the high mountains and half of it in the foot hills. Nice challenging roads that we took at speed, dicey at times, but we were on a mission … until the gas fiasco and the mission became more urgent. The mountains and v allies are are gorgeous but really cannot be captured well with my camera. I missed some shots I might have liked to share but most are just so BIG that the camera does not do them justice. I miss the ocean, however. And, no matter how reminiscent of Newfoundland this is (only much much bigger), it's not as dramatic without the angry sea. And, Newfoundland is a lot closer. i suppose you could drive up and down the Northern Peninsula to make up for differences in miles. The wildlife is the clincher. But today, it was like an end of the world movie. No living animal except a few humans and a dog.But, lots of bugs. I guess they count. They are so thick on the windshield, you that you can't see through it. Honest! Other than that, hardly a bird. No creatures at all. Miles of trees, a forest fire, there are several - one that threatens to cut us off if we get into Inuvik but I'm certain we can drive right through it. I've done it before but not with exposed jugs of extra gas!!! I guess Quebec is ablaze also!

Regardless, we reach The Dempster and instead of going into Dawson City decide to test it out. It starts as tar for about a mile but then becomes gravel. Seems to be easy traveling as dirt goes. On the way out we stop at the general store and find it is under new management. The have rooms and it looks like we can sneak some gas into our “questionable” spare containers. The manager tells us the Steve Martin ans some other biggies that I know but can't remember are in Dawson and all the hotel are pretty much full. We take a room here. I love a party and I guess Dawson, a border town, is certainly doing that now. But, why drive there just to come back tomorrow? We have booked a room at Eagle Plain for tomorrow and then will decide if we are up for the run to Inuvik or just cross the Arctic Circle. I'd like to go on to Inuvik and get some pics. But, the Circle is the real goal and that is just 20-30 miles beyond Eagle Plains.

Bruce is feeling more comfortable on the dirt, especially since it's only a light dusting of loose gravel and not 10 inches of sand and stones that we (Joel, Tor, Don, I and Bruce) encountered in Labrador on Bruce's first trip with the “Tour Division”.

We are close. If I see a grizzly, I'll have to try to get a picture. That's why Bruce has my medical proxy and living will!! After all, how many chances does one get?